This steep sloped vineyard with next to no top soil is always extraordinarily consistent. Hints of floral white peach fruit give way to a touch of smoky spice. Generous ripe fruit is balanced by tight phenolic intensity and a fine zesty finish. A superb wine.
This is also quite restrained and only aggressive swirling coaxes the citrus-inflected honeysuckle, hazelnut and pear-scented nose to reveal itself. There is excellent mid-palate density to the notably rich and caressing flavors that possess excellent depth and persistence for a villages level wine. I would add that this is a relatively big and powerful Tessons and delivers very fine quality while offering fine aging potential. Outstanding. Top value. Drink 2025+
Fichet's greatest wine this year is the 2017 Meursault Le Tesson, a lovely white Burgundy that wafts from the glass with aromas of white peach, lemon oil, nutmeg, spring flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and intense, with tangy acids, excellent depth at the tight-knit core and a sense of completeness that sets it apart.
Inviting aromas of white peach, nectarine, subtle brown spices, flowers and powdered stone. Distinctly savory and salty but also with lovely sucrosité to its stone fruit, toasty oak and spice flavors. A bit disjointed and drying on the back end, not yet showing the balance of the Chevalières. This wine also gives an impression of lower acidity than the Chevalières but in fact the actual number is a bit higher (3.7 grams per liter vs. 3.5 for the Chevalières).
This has got to be the most well organised cellar in the Côte de Beaune. Jean-Philippe’s attention to detail in his winery is a good indication of his handling of fruit, and goes some way to explaining the precise and distinct characteristics found in his wines each possessing their own unique timbre. These wines are made with great care and patience, and all enjoy 12 months in barrel (he tends to use larger 600 litre demi-muids rather than the traditional 228 litre pièces) followed by a further 6 months on fine lees in tank. His painstaking attention to detail is demonstrated in his wines, which are pure and seamless. Though most of his wines are only village lieux dits, they could easily be mistaken for premiers crus.
Meursault is the first great white wine area that one stumbles upon on leaving Beaune. Unlike other white dominated appellations in Burgundy, Meursault has no grand cru vineyards. It nonetheless has significant flair and power which make up for this deficiency. Indeed, if tasted blind some of these wines could even surpass other Burgundian grand crus. They are no fainting daisies. This may partially be due to Meursault's lower water table which enables the roots to delve deep in the soil picking up many trace minerals and which further stresses the vines. In addition, the cellars are more profound and cooler, enabling long fermentations, which increase complexity and longevity. Some interesting red wines are also made.