Marsannay remains a relatively unsung hero of the northern Côte de Nuits, but agitation for premier cru status in vineyards like Les Longeroies is well supported by locals and may indeed be achieved in the future. Fragrant red and black fruit on the nose is pepped up by 25% new oak. The texture of the palate is supple and well formed, with just an edge of cool, crunchy tannin to give this the hearty character of great Marsannay. A fruit-driven core with blackcurrants and raspberries followed by a leafy lift on the finish completes a commendable wine.
This is attractively fresh and bright with its broader range of aromatic components that include red currant, cherry, spice and soft floral wisps. There is notably better volume and density to the equally delicious medium weight flavors that conclude in a refreshing and naturally sweet finish. This is almost gulpable today yet it has the underlying material and structure to reward 4 to 6 years of cellaring. Drink 89-91
Arnaud Mortet uses two parcels - one old, the other planted with Pinot Fin clones in 1992 - for this forward, juicy, crowd-pleasing Marsannay that's a great value introduction to his winemaking talents. Lightly wooded, it's all about texture, pleasure and juicy bramble and raspberry fruit. Drinking Window 2020 - 2024
For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
The most northerly appellation of the Cote d'Or, Marsannay is also the only appellation authorised to produce red, white and rose wine. Only created in 1987, this is an interesting area where quality is improving. Top producers include Bruno Clair, Meo-Camuzet and Denis Mortet.