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As with previous vintages, this wine is a classical example of the village. It is a blend of eight parcels across the village from vines ranging from 10 to 70 years of age. 20% new oak gives a toasty support to the nectarine fruit. It has volume and energy, and a notably long finish for a village wine. It is an excellent example of its type and will drink well from its youth.
(this wine was scheduled to be bottled in August, but Colin had not yet racked his crus at the time of my June visit): Aromas of pear and flowers offer more interest than the slightly bitter-edged Saint-Aubin Les Charmois (84-86) that preceded it in my tasting. A step up in texture as well, showing an attractive silkiness. Still a bit edgy and lemony on the end, but not as tart as the Charmois.
Bruno’s estate is spread across an impressive 30+ different parcels in Chassagne Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet and St Aubin. From 2016 onwards, his portfolio includes Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Desmoiselles and Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru, passed down to him by his father, Michel, who has stepped into retirement (Michel Colin-Deleger’s estate was divided between his two sons, Bruno and Philippe). Bruno’s style blends Burgundy's tell-tale minerality with luxuriant fruit. The wines tend to display generous concentration with vibrant drive. Many have the potential to age beautifully but Bruno’s wines are also notable for their open approachability in youth. His wide range of Chassagne Montrachet premiers crus captures the diverse expression of the appellation.
The white wines of Chassagne Montrachet can be difficult to distinguish from Puligny. At their most typical they are slightly fleshier and more hedonistic, but are often just as mineral and refined making the two almost inseparable. When distinguishable, they offer notes of honeysuckle, lime blossom and honey. Many have become quite approachable when young. It is larger than Puligny with vineyards totalling over 330 hectares. Though it shares both the grand cru vineyards of Le Montrachet and Bâtard Montrachet, it has sole ownership of the miniscule Criots Bâtard Montrachet. Similar to Puligny, Chassagne also grows Pinot Noir, which can be austere when young. A small amount of red Chassagne is also made.