The Vergers has a unique character amongst this range of wines: vigorous acidity on the palate, grip, energy, texture, and volume, it is penetrating and very straight in style. It seems more like a Puligny than a Chassagne in many ways, but the caress of stone fruit volume on the mid-palate betrays its true origins. One for those who seek out subtlety and precision.
This is quite aromatically similar to the Chaumées for the moment though that will likely change as the sulfur recedes. Otherwise there is a slightly finer mouth feel to the attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that exude an appealing mineral streak on the more complex, linear and markedly dry finish. This is worth a look and I particularly like the balance. Drink 2024+
Bright, pale yellow. Energetic scents of pineapple, menthol and white flowers. A distinct step up in intensity and lift from the Chaumées, offering complex floral and mineral elements and an impression of finesse. This taut, sharply chiseled wine strikes me as more Puligny- than Chassagne-like. Finishes savory, firm and persistent.
Bruno’s estate is spread across an impressive 30+ different parcels in Chassagne Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet and St Aubin. From 2016 onwards, his portfolio includes Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Desmoiselles and Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru, passed down to him by his father, Michel, who has stepped into retirement (Michel Colin-Deleger’s estate was divided between his two sons, Bruno and Philippe). Bruno’s style blends Burgundy's tell-tale minerality with luxuriant fruit. The wines tend to display generous concentration with vibrant drive. Many have the potential to age beautifully but Bruno’s wines are also notable for their open approachability in youth. His wide range of Chassagne Montrachet premiers crus captures the diverse expression of the appellation.
The white wines of Chassagne Montrachet can be difficult to distinguish from Puligny. At their most typical they are slightly fleshier and more hedonistic, but are often just as mineral and refined making the two almost inseparable. When distinguishable, they offer notes of honeysuckle, lime blossom and honey. Many have become quite approachable when young. It is larger than Puligny with vineyards totalling over 330 hectares. Though it shares both the grand cru vineyards of Le Montrachet and Bâtard Montrachet, it has sole ownership of the miniscule Criots Bâtard Montrachet. Similar to Puligny, Chassagne also grows Pinot Noir, which can be austere when young. A small amount of red Chassagne is also made.