This tiny village parcel is tucked just beneath 1er Cru Charmes towards the Puligny end of the village. This has good weight and a nice, direct expression of white peaches and floral finesse, with some understated power on the finish.
Reduction. Rounder and clearly riper medium-bodied flavors possess a succulent mouth feel as well as plenty of punch on the clean and citrus-inflected finale that is definitely quite crisp but not edgy. It is however bone dry and probably will not be for everyone. Drink: 2022+
Lively and transparent and long. Very sleek and satisfying. Wonderful tension but fruit too. Drink 2018-2025
In the Fichet cellar Les Gruyaches always produces a very classical Meursault, from 85 year old vines below Charmes. Notes of apple, pear, nutmeg and oatmeal introduce a nicely concentrated, glossily textural and complete wine, with a deep core and a sappy, penetrating finish. Excellent. Drink 2020-2030
This has got to be the most well organised cellar in the Côte de Beaune. Jean-Philippe’s attention to detail in his winery is a good indication of his handling of fruit, and goes some way to explaining the precise and distinct characteristics found in his wines each possessing their own unique timbre. These wines are made with great care and patience, and all enjoy 12 months in barrel (he tends to use larger 600 litre demi-muids rather than the traditional 228 litre pièces) followed by a further 6 months on fine lees in tank. His painstaking attention to detail is demonstrated in his wines, which are pure and seamless. Though most of his wines are only village lieux dits, they could easily be mistaken for premiers crus.
Meursault is the first great white wine area that one stumbles upon on leaving Beaune. Unlike other white dominated appellations in Burgundy, Meursault has no grand cru vineyards. It nonetheless has significant flair and power which make up for this deficiency. Indeed, if tasted blind some of these wines could even surpass other Burgundian grand crus. They are no fainting daisies. This may partially be due to Meursault's lower water table which enables the roots to delve deep in the soil picking up many trace minerals and which further stresses the vines. In addition, the cellars are more profound and cooler, enabling long fermentations, which increase complexity and longevity. Some interesting red wines are also made.