This cuvée lost half its volume to frost, but the remainder that matured through the summer has produced a quintessential Meursault. This has nutty tones, a salted butter savoury nuance, and soft, fresh acidity, with a good punch of energy at the end.
Here too the reduction is sufficiently strong to mask the underlying aromas. Otherwise there is a lush and exceptionally generous mouth feel to the medium weight flavors that deliver good if not special depth and persistence on the moderately dry but not really austere finale. Drink: 2022+
Savoury and racy – real class for the money. Not austere but very refreshing. GV. Drink 2018-2024
The regular Meursault villages, hit by frost in 2016, is quite taut. It opens in the glass with a pretty bouquet of green orchard fruit, citrus and a light framing of reduction. On the palate the wine is nicely concentrated, with an edgy, racy core of acids which will need some time - and a second winter of élevage - to really integrate. Drink 2020-2030
This has got to be the most well organised cellar in the Côte de Beaune. Jean-Philippe’s attention to detail in his winery is a good indication of his handling of fruit, and goes some way to explaining the precise and distinct characteristics found in his wines each possessing their own unique timbre. These wines are made with great care and patience, and all enjoy 12 months in barrel (he tends to use larger 600 litre demi-muids rather than the traditional 228 litre pièces) followed by a further 6 months on fine lees in tank. His painstaking attention to detail is demonstrated in his wines, which are pure and seamless. Though most of his wines are only village lieux dits, they could easily be mistaken for premiers crus.
Meursault is the first great white wine area that one stumbles upon on leaving Beaune. Unlike other white dominated appellations in Burgundy, Meursault has no grand cru vineyards. It nonetheless has significant flair and power which make up for this deficiency. Indeed, if tasted blind some of these wines could even surpass other Burgundian grand crus. They are no fainting daisies. This may partially be due to Meursault's lower water table which enables the roots to delve deep in the soil picking up many trace minerals and which further stresses the vines. In addition, the cellars are more profound and cooler, enabling long fermentations, which increase complexity and longevity. Some interesting red wines are also made.