A wonderfully complete wine, bright and open, with scented black forest fruit aromas. In the palate there is a purity, drive and subtle freshness, with rounded tannic depth and intense black Morello cherry flavours. Bright and very long.
Here too notes of wood toast and menthol are present on the more elegant array of red currant, spice and a lovely range of floral elements. The sleeker and more refined medium weight flavors possess an appealing sense of underlying tension while delivering outstanding length on the balanced finale. This needs to add depth to merit the top end of my predicted range but the natural class of a fine CSJ is evident. Note that this too will need at least a decade to arrive at its peak. Outstanding. Drink: 2026+
The Clos St-Jacques is excellent this year, opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of blackcurrant, forest floor, rose petal and a framing of creamy new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, ample and complete. It's richer, darker and more soil-driven than the other premiers crus in the cellar, its tannins fine-grained but chalky, its finish long and persistent. Drink 2024-2045
Bright dark red. Knockout ethereal nose combines raspberry, licorice, rose petal, lavender, wild mint and spices. Densely packed but juicy, suave and a bit youthfully imploded, conveying an almost magical impression of weightlessness. Cool and reserved but not at all hard, this fully ripe but reticent wine spreads out to saturate the palate, showing a lighter touch than the Combe Aux Moines. Displays a captivating restrained sweetness from start to long finish. As the lower part of his Clos Saint-Jacques parcel was frosted (production for this premier cru was cut by 30% in '16), Fourrier chose not to make a separate Cuvée Centennaire.
Jean-Marie Fourrier took over his family domaine in 1994 and has attacked every vintage with dynamic determination and ambition, building the reputation of the estate with astute viticulture and fanatical winemaking. He had learned from the best, most notably the late Henri Jayer of Vosne Romanée and Domaine Drouhin in the Willamette Valley in Oregon with whom he did his formative training. He is a keen participant in the growing trend towards minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery. The domaine has a remarkable array of very old vines, many having been planted between the wars. The Fourrier wines are pure and balanced.
The greatest village in terms of notable grand cru vineyards, Gevrey Chambertin has no less than 9 of them including its most famous Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze, and includes a premier cru vineyard that many people deem grand cru in quality - Clos St. Jacques. It encompasses approximately 400 hectares under vine also making it the largest top quality vineyard area in the Côte de Nuits. Gevrey-Chambertin has many followers who seek out its deeply coloured, robust and textured wines. They are often firmer than the neighbouring appellations of Chambolle Musigny and Vosne Romanée and can take several years to soften once released. Due to its size and reputation, the list of excellent producers is noteworthy and many are worth seeking out.