A fresh, pure and ripe nose of liqueur-like dark berry fruit, lavender, violet and earth nuances is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The textured, round and utterly delicious middle weight flavors possess good mid-palate fat as well as plenty of minerality before culminating in a sleekly muscular finish where a hint of bitter cherry appears. This is so rich and concentrated that it will be approachable young but make no mistake it has the tannic spine to improve over the next 12 to 15 years if desired. Excellent. Sweet spot. Outstanding. Drink 2026+
The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes includes 40% whole bunch fruit this year. In some ways, it has a more conservative bouquet than the les Carelles or the Caillerets. Thomas said that he once vowed never to add whole bunch fruit, but he decided to do so this year and feels that it adds freshness, a bit of light to the dark. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannin. More saline than its peers, this has a mouth-sapping intensity with great linearity and focus towards the sustained finish. Once those aromatics open, this will be a serious Volnay for long-term aging. Drink 2018-2035
We are delighted to introduce the wines of Thomas Bouley in 2015, joining our selection of great Volnay domaines. Those customers who bought Burgundy en primeur in the early days of Goedhuis Co may have a sense of déjà vu! Johnny first bought from Thomas’s father Jean-Marc in the 1980s. After a few years’ sabbatical it is wonderful to be reacquainted with this prestigious domaine whose wines we consider very special indeed. Much has happened in the intervening years. Son Thomas now makes the wines and is one of the Côte de Beaune’s most dedicated growers, with an unstoppable energy and enthusiasm. They have also just completed one of the area’s most sophisticated new wineries right in the heart of Volnay. This investment will ensure that the already high quality of the domaine will only ascend. This is a great estate making wines which truly reflect Volnay and Pommard.
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.