From vines situated high up behind the church of Gevrey, this is a complex and finely tuned wine. With dense black fruit flavours, there is an appealing bite of freshness, with the lasting sensations of sweet ripe fruits and firm rounded tannins.
Generous amounts of wood fight slightly with the otherwise very fresh aromas of plum, wet stone, dark berries and humus. There is excellent richness to the mineral-driven medium-bodied flavorsthat possess excellent energy on the supple and suave mid-palate that possesses a relatively sophisticated mouth feel before culminating in a well-balanced and persistent finish. Even though the Lavaut is consistently Mortet’s best 1er, today it’s no more complex or persistent than the Champeaux. Drink 2021+
Rich and concentrated and sweet. Thoroughly satisfying. Except for the price. Prunes though certainly not luscious. Drink 2017-2027
For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
The greatest village in terms of notable grand cru vineyards, Gevrey Chambertin has no less than 9 of them including its most famous Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze, and includes a premier cru vineyard that many people deem grand cru in quality - Clos St. Jacques. It encompasses approximately 400 hectares under vine also making it the largest top quality vineyard area in the Côte de Nuits. Gevrey-Chambertin has many followers who seek out its deeply coloured, robust and textured wines. They are often firmer than the neighbouring appellations of Chambolle Musigny and Vosne Romanée and can take several years to soften once released. Due to its size and reputation, the list of excellent producers is noteworthy and many are worth seeking out.