Limpid, pale straw in appearance, the light picks out hints of silvery green in the glass. The nose, at first reticent, requires some coaxing. The taut house style is evident but then it unfolds with fresh cut green apple, white peach and nectarine, notes of tangerine zest and a hint of flint strike. The palate displays an extraordinary intensity, the citrus components competing for attention with broader brioche notes. The finish is long, complex and very satisfying. It is quite literally mouth-watering and without question another Dom Ruinart destined for greatness.
One of the highlights among this year's new tête de cuvée releases, 2006 the Brut Blanc de Blancs Dom Ruinart is a powerful, almost tannic Champagne built on structure and intensity. Then again, much of the Chardonnay here comes from the Montagne de Reims, where wines tend to naturally be quite broad. Even though it's now ten years old, the 2006 is much less expressive than either the 2002 or 2004 at a similar stage. I expect it will be quite a few years before the 2006 is truly ready to drink. Over the years I have been fortunate to taste Dom Ruinart back to the 1970s, and while I don't think the 2006 will need decades to be at its best, it certainly does look like a long distance runner. There is plenty of citrus and floral driven intensity, although the bouquet is less toasty and open than it often is. In short, the 2006 Dom Ruinart is a wine for those who can be patient. It will be a fine investment for those looking for a wine to cellar to commemorate special occasions.
Originally wool merchants, the Runiart House was established in 1729 by Nicolas Runiart who fulfilled his uncle, the Benedictine Monk, Dom Thierry Ruinart's ambition to make Ruinart a premier champagne house. At the entrance to the town of Reims, hewn out of the chalk, Ruinart's "crayères" harbour the secret of a slow ageing process normally lasting between three and twelve years depending on the cuvees. Ruinart was the first champagne House to acquire its crayères, the only ones to be classed as a historic monument in 1931, to age its wines. Without them, the ageing process would not be the same. The depth of the pits and the chalk from which they are made provide perfect thermal stability and optimum humidity. The constant low temperature leads to a slow prise de mousse (the formation of effervescence), resulting in a mousse of incomparable quality. Chardonnay, the dominant grape variety used in all Ruinart cuvees, is the very essence of the Ruinart taste. Grown in the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims vineyards, this exceptionally high quality grape lends all its finesse, elegance and purity to the Ruinart champagnes.
Champagne, the world's greatest sparkling wine, needs little introduction - with imitations produced in virtually every country capable of growing grapes, including such unlikely candidates as India and China. The Champagne region, to the north of Paris, has the most northerly vineyards in France, with vines grown on slopes with a southerly exposure to maximise sunlight. The soil is chalky, providing an excellent balance of drainage and water retention. The key to the wine is in the cellar - the bubbles result from a second fermentation in the bottle and the rich toasty flavours in great Champagne come from extended bottle ageing on the yeasty lees. Until the eighteenth century, the wines produced in the Champagne area were light acidic white wines, with no hint of sparkle. However glass and closure technology developed at that time and it was not long before Dom Perignon, a Benedictine monk at the Abbey of Hautvilliers, started experimenting with blends and produced the first recognisable champagne. In a world accustomed to still wines, the advent of champagne was almost a flop. It was saved when it became fashionable at the French court as a result of Louis XV's mistress Madame de Pompadour commenting "Champagne isthe only wine that lets a woman remain beautiful after she has drunk it." And the rest is history, with famous (or infamous) champagne lovers including Casanova, Dumas, Wagner, Winston Churchill, James Bond and Coco Chanel.