Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2006 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a deep, intense nose with plenty of dark berry fruit (blackberry and boysenberry), mixed with cedar and licorice scents. Saturnine at first, it responds to aeration, opening up with minimal encouragement and gaining more and more intensity. The palate is what you might call a bold and brassy style of Clos de Tart - upfront fruit, muscular, forthright tannin and enormous depth on the finish that fans out gloriously. Think of a blast of trumpets in the Albert Hall and you've got this wine. Immense! Drink 2017-2040
Morey St. Dénis often suffers from an identity crisis. They are more fruit forward than the wines of Gevrey Chambertin, yet more structured than those of Chambolle Musigny. It seems in this sensethat they are like middle children, always wanting to please yet not standing out as the noisy one or the notably quiet one. They are however crowd pleasers and for those who feel that Gevreys are too muscular and Chambolles too feminine; Moreys seem just right, offering velvety tannins and tangible fruit. The village offers five grand cru vineyards including Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Dénis and Clos des Lambrays which nonetheless can rival those of neighbouring villages in terms of quality (some even view them as the best in the Côte de Nuits) and various premier cru vineyards.