Bordeaux Book, 3rd Edition (1998) Robert Parker 90 points Drink 1997-2003 As this wine has developed, it has taken on a pronounced roasted, melted asphalt/tar-scented nose that in some ways is the essence of Graves, but it seems strikingly devoid of some of the other nuances so common in Haut-Brion. The wine is fully mature, with a deep garnet color, and a pronounced asphalt-scented nose. This impression is verified in the mouth, where the wine reveals a lot of smokiness, tar, and sweet black fruit flavors. This surprisingly evolved wine has been fully mature for a decade or more. I would not push my luck with this vintage of Haut-Brion, preferring to consume it over the next 5-6 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2003. Last tasted 10/97
Arguably the oldest recognised Bordeaux grand cru, Haut Brion has been owned by the American Dillon family since 1935. The Château was an early moderniser - the first estate to implement steel vats in 1961 - and over the years, their incredible investments have re-established the inherent quality of this property, enabling it to emerge as possibly the most consistent first growth since the 1980s. Second wine is Bahans Haut Brion.
Stretching from the rather unglamorous southern suburbs of Bordeaux, for 50 km along the left bank of the river Garonne, lies Graves. Named for its gravelly soil, a relic of Ice Age glaciers, this is the birthplace of claret, despatched from the Middle Ages onwards from the nearby quayside to England in vast quantities. It can feel as though Bordeaux is just about red wines, but some sensational white wines are produced in this area from a blend of sauvignon blanc, Semillon and, occasionally, muscadelle grapes, often fermented and aged in barrel. In particular, Domaine de Chevalier is renowned for its superbly complex whites, which continue to develop in bottle over decades. A premium appellation, Pessac-Leognan, was created in 1987 for the most prestigious terroirs within Graves. These are soils with exceptional drainage, made up of gravel terraces built up in layers over many millennia, and consequently thrive in mediocre vintages but are less likely to perform well in hotter years. These wines were appraised and graded in their own classification system in 1953 and updated in 1959, but, like the 1855 classification system, this should be regarded with caution and the wines must absolutely be assessed on their own current merits.