Four days in Bordeaux tasting 2009s with Matthew Jukes convinced me (not that I needed further convincing) that he is one of the outstanding critics writing currently. He is a fearsomely efficient taster, working his way through a room of wines at a furious pace yet producing detailed, eloquent and amusing notes.
He recently featured Martin Krajewski’s Ch de Sours Rose in MoneyWeek – a wine which is going from strength to strength. Here is his note:
“Made from merlot, with a touch of cabernet franc, this wine has become finer and finer over the last few years. The colour is now haunting and ethereal (unlike the old ‘lipstick’ years). The flavour is subtle, long and dry (unlike the ‘juicy/fruity’ years) – in short the whole package has grown up considerably and you can now pitch it against Provençal offerings at twice the price and feel jolly chuffed indeed.
And that is not all – magnums are now available in much larger numbers. There is nothing flashier than a mag of this luminescent rosé on a summer’s day.”