Joseph Voillot 2014: Unmissable Volnays and Pommards

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Jean-Pierre Charlot of Domaine Joseph Voillot is without doubt one of the warmest, most genuine men you could ever hope to meet – and he’s a terrific winemaker to boot.

He is a favourite of the critics: Neal Martin has described Jean-Pierre as an “unsung hero of the Côte de Beaune” and “the winemakers’ winemaker.” Anyone who wants to grasp the essence of Volnay and Pommard need look no further than this Domaine.

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It has been a hard few years for winemakers in the Côte de Beaune with vineyards repeatedly ravaged by hail and yields decimated. 2014 was another challenging year, and there is certainly no surfeit of these wines – 2014 yields remain below average – however the quality of the youthful wines is impressive. Jean-Pierre considered it “a classic year” and all his cuvées are notably balanced, with stunningly vibrant fruit, good acidity and supple tannins.

I can’t put it any better than Neal Martin:
“He’s a true winemaker, a true Burgundian to his very core and he’s a dying breed. His wines have a loyal following that seems to be increasing year upon year. Prices are remaining sensible. He’s not a person who measures quality by how much somebody is willing to pay, rather, by how much wine-lovers gain pleasure from his wines — and a lot of people obtain a lot of pleasure from them, including me.”

We strongly urge you to become one of his loyal followers and to include one or two of these wonderful wines in your cellar. Major inroads have been made into our Voillot allocation since the release of our offer two weeks ago so do let us know your interest as soon as possible. Wines are offered subject to availability.

Volnay Vieilles Vignes
£225.00 per 12 bottles IB | £245.00 per 6 magnums IB
Bright shining purple colour, with masses of sweet loganberry fruit aromas. This is a full and fleshy style, with balancing freshness. Drink 2017 – 2026. David Roberts MW

The 2014 Volnay Villages has a juicy bouquet with red cherries and raspberry fruit, touches of orange blossom, quite sensual and flamboyant, very Volnaysian. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity. There is so much roundness here, sensual in texture with plush red cherries and raspberry tinged with soy towards the long finish. Just lovely! Drink 2017-2027. 88-90 points Neal Martin

Pommard Vieilles Vignes
£240.00 per 12 bottles IB
Vibrant redcurrant and red cherry flavours, the firmly knit tannins enhance the fruit weight on the finish. Drink 2018 – 2026. David Roberts MW

The 2014 Pommard Villages, which sees no new oak, has a very expressive bouquet with hints of sous-bois infusing the raspberry and strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, a little chewiness on the entry with good acidity, quite a firm grip with a thickly texture, almost Volnay-like finish that lingers nicely. Very fine. Drink 2017-2029. 89-91 points Neal Martin

Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets
£395.00 per 12 bottles IB
This shallow-soiled vineyard produces a wine of purity and minerality. Brilliant ruby colour, delicious summer pudding flavours, this bright lively wine shows energy and drive. Very good indeed. Drink 2018 – 2028. David Roberts MW

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru les Caillerets has a very expressive bouquet, dark plum mixed with sous-bois and undergrowth. There is just a hint of cola here. The palate is refined and focused, a beautiful line of acidity here, gentle, so much so that is belies that power and persistence on the finish. Utterly charming, this will delight over many years. Drink 2017-2032. 91-93 points Neal Martin

Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots
£525.00 per 12 bottles IB
Brilliant purple colour, this is a wine focusing on brightness and zest. A lovely balance of flavours between fresh red fruits with subtle undertones of cinnamon and spice. The tannic depth here supports bold fruit flavours, to culminate in a long finish of power and depth. Drink 2020 – 2030. David Roberts MW

From the lieu-dit Petits Epenots, the 2014 Pommard 1er Cru les Epenots has a crisp, effervescent bouquet with red cherry and strawberry fruit interlaced with orange zest and cola. There is lots of energy here and that translates through onto the palate. There is plenty of fleshy ripe red fruit, a little tart compared to others, a very comely Pommard with fine precision if not quite the persistence on the finish. Drink 2017-2032. 90-92 points Neal Martin

Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles
£525.00 per 12 bottles IB
Radiant brick colour. This is a lovely vibrant style, with strikingly fresh redcurrant fruit aromas. It has a pleasing line of finesse and elegance more often associated with Volnay. It nevertheless has a delicious central core of Pommard fruit and depth. The final sensation is one of depth and great charm. Drink 2020-2030. David Roberts MW

This parcel was particularly badly hit by hail in 2014, but has come up smiling, at least as far as quality is concerned. It’s a very spicy wine, with lovely white pepper fragrance, firmish but well integrated tannins, black cherry fruit and a chalky frisson. Drink 2018-25. 94 points. Tim Atkin MW

Wines offered subject to availability