Beaujolais has always had the ability to make great wine. This has largely been forgotten because of the dangerous combination of Beaujolais Nouveau and carbonic maceration. This helped the area get through some difficult economic times but did untold damage both to the reputation of its wines and its ability for producing stunning age-worthy wines. Luckily not everyone followed this trend.
Maison Jadot, with their wonderful vineyards in Moulin-à-Vent (rightly the most famous of the Beaujolais crus), never deviated from their aim to make great wine. These classical wines made from Gamay “pinote” as they age, becoming closer and closer to Pinot Noir as the years pass. When fully mature even the most discerning palates can’t tell them apart. Last year while lunching at Maison Jadot we drank a 1999. It was fabulous and gave the Beaune Clos des Ursules 1983 a run for its money.
The first vintage we bought from Château des Jacques was the 2009. The Grand Clos de Rochegres 2009 is drinking utterly brilliantly at the moment. So it is hugely exciting to be offering a vintage that could be even better. In fact 2015 may be the greatest Beaujolais vintage since the war.
“The Gamays show exceptional depth of colour, an intensity of fruit that is well above the norm and firm, silky tannins. 2015 is a vintage of the calibre of 2009 – or, for those with longer memories, 1947 – it has all the makings of a very great vintage indeed, and thus merits the special attention we are paying to the wine aging.” Cyril Chirouze, Wine Maker
The samples we tasted last week were just glorious. I am afraid they are not for immediate drinking. These wines are made to age and will need at least three years before you reach for the corkscrew, but I assure you it will be worth the wait.
Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegres Château des Jacques 2015
£98.00 per 6 bottles In Bond
£105.00 per 3 magnums In Bond
£93.00 per single jeroboam In Bond
Situated at the summit of the Moulin-à-Vent appellation on the border with Fleurie, this is a glorious vineyard. The 2015 expresses deliciously bold dark bramble fruit flavours and balances a characteristic succulence with great poise and harmony. The classical Moulin-à-Vent substance provides both depth and charm. A lovely cuvée. Drink 2019 – 2030 (and possibly longer according to Johnny Goedhuis, but not David Roberts MW!)