An ugly duckling into a swan…


Opinion is mixed over the evolution of the 2004 red Burgundies. Some show noticeable leafy and herbaceous characteristics and there is debate as to how these will develop. There is definitely hope – as evidenced by my experience at dinner last night.

I was in Burgundy having dinner at Le Bistro de l’Hotel and was handed the wine list. I was about to order Gevrey Chambertin Cuvée l’Abeilles Ponsot 2007 but the wine waiter said that I should try Laurent’s Morey St Denis 1er Cru Cuvee des Allouettes 2004 instead.


I was a bit dubious but I remembered Laurent saying how the 2004s had put on colour and were showing really well. How right he was.

It was fabulous; so good in fact that we had a second bottle and would have had a third but they have now run out. It had lost all that leafy greeness and when David Roberts tasted it he thought it was a Grand Cru from a top vintage.

Talk about an a ugly duckling turning into a swan.