A wine which exemplifies the charms and complexities of whole bunch pressed fruit. This wine has a softness of touch with delicate acidity for the vintage, with layered sweet wild strawberry flavours. Long, refined and Grand Cru in every way.
Here there is gentle wood setting off a similar if more complex nose that displays prominent floral and spice scents. There is very good volume to the utterly delicious medium weight and wonderfully vibrant flavors that possess really fine delineation before culminating in a mineral-inflected, saline and focused finish. I very much admire the sleek mouth feel as well as the impeccable balance. Lovely juice that is quite firmly structured and a bit less youthfully austere than usual.
(produced from two large parcels of differing vine age - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age). There is gentle wood setting off a similar if more complex nose that displays more prominent floral and spice scents. There is also very good volume to the utterly delicious medium weight and wonderfully vibrant flavors that possess really fine delineation before culminating in a mineral-inflected, saline and focused finish. I very much admire the sleek mouth feel as well as the impeccable balance. Lovely juice that is moderately structured and a bit less youthfully austere than usual. Drink 2025+
The 2013 Clos des Lambrays is whole bunch as usual (whereas the Morey Saint Denis is destemmed) and raised in 50% new oak. Thierry Brouin assembled my sample from four barrels scattered around the cellar, since the ventilation at one end creates variance in maturation. It has a refined bouquet with crisp leafy red berry fruit, harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass, fine mineralité underneath. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. This feels very harmonious with more energy and tension than the 2012, structured with a bright and vivacious finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is a classy Clos des Lambrays 2013 that should age with panache. Drink: 2016 - 2040
Perfumed and light spice aromatics. A refined silky texture. This is intense; it has a fine, pure tight, shimmering core which is swathed in aromatics and elegant red fruit. Delightful aromatic finish….which lingers delightfully. There is a very fine, fresh thread to this finish, enveloped in the rose petal aroma. It is a complex and discreet wine. Score 19.7. From 2023
This Morey Saint Denis domaine may have passed through various owners over the recent decades, but one noticeably steadfast mark on Burgundy’s landscape has been Thierry Brouin, making the wines at this iconic estate since 1979 until his retirement in 2017. His signature style of whole bunch vinification for the grand cru has carved an esteemed place for Thierry in Burgundy’s story. The domaine was recently purchase by Bernard Arnault of LVMH, and a new régisseur has been installed. Boris Champy has nearly 10 years’ experience in the Côte d’Or working at Louis Latour, and before that in California and Bordeaux. He and Thierry worked closely alongside each other in 2017, ensuring a smooth handover. Tantalisingly short of a monopole, the domaine owns 8.66 hectares of the 8.8 ha Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru in the heart of Morey Saint Denis. As well as the substantial Clos, the domaine also has vines in premier cru and village sites within Morey, and added two small premier cru plots in Puligny Montrachet in the 1990s.
Clos des Lambrays is a Grand Cru appellation situated in the commune of Morey St Denis in the Cote de Nuits. The 8.8 hectares of land, largely owned by the Saier family, were elevated from Premier Cru to Grand Cru status in 1979 as the vineyards clearly had huge potential. Nestled between Gevrey Chambertin to the north and Chambolle Musigny to the south the best Clos des Lambrays wines combine the feminine delicacy of Chambolle with the power and structure of Gevrey.