The 2.15-hectare monopole 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Les Clos des Ducs had also not finished its malo, so the aromatics were difficult to discern. The palate is full-bodied with dense tannins, very good weight on the mouth with chalky tannins. There is very good tension here with a masculine, taut finish that lingers long on the finish. Despite its infancy and unfinished state, the breeding indicates that the Clos des Ducs may turn out to be the pick of the 2012 Volnay from d'Angerville.
Arriving at the family Château in Volnay and standing in the famed Clos des Ducs overlooking the village and its other 1er crus below always gives me a huge thrill. This is everything that Burgundy is all about; history dating back to 1507, and back to 1804 for the Angerville family and their ancestors, great breeding in some of the finest vineyards in the Cote d'Or and finally anability to make Pinot Noir at its very purist and best.
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.