A wine to challenge the consensus that Clos de Vougeot wines are always rugged and masculine. This glorious cuvée has a stunning plum fruit feel, with lovely succulence and richness. Good, long and classy.
(from a .32 ha parcel of vines just below those of Château de la Tour in the lower middle of the slope). A discreet application of wood highlights the markedly ripe but fresh aromas of various dark berries, pungent earth and humus scents. I like the seductive texture of the middle weight plus flavors that manage to retain good delineation on the notably powerful, dusty and balanced finish that is less youthfully austere than usual. This suave and lush effort is also impressive but note that plenty of patience will be required. Drink 2027+
A more discreet application of wood highlights the ripe and fresh aromas of various dark berries, earth and humus scents. I like the seductive texture of the middle weight plus flavors that manage to retain good delineation on the powerful, dusty and balanced finish that is less youthfully austere than usual. Drink 2024+
The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru yielded just four barrels this year, one of them new. It has a powerful, almost ravishing bouquet with vibrant, feisty red berry fruit infused with orange rind and spices. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, superb mineralité and tension that leads to an unexpectedly refined, understated finish with plenty of poise and linearity. One of the best you will find this year.
For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
Clos de Vougeot is a Grand Cru appellation situated in the heart of the Cote de Nuits producing only red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. The vines are enclosed within a single walled vineyard built by monks in the 12th and 14th Centuries. With 47.54 hectares under vine Clos de Vougeot is the largest Grand Cru vineyard in the Cote d'Or.