For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
The wines of Chambolle Musigny are like no other. They can be superbly delicate, yet mindblowingly complex. Of all the northern Burgundy appellations, they are the most ethereal, and as a result the most feminine. Most of the Chambolle Musigny vineyard area is encompassed in its Village and Premier Cru appellations including the robust Beaux Bruns, the splendidly mineral Le Cras and the poised yet powerful Les Amoureuses. It produces only two Grand Crus - the round and rich Bonnes Mares which it shares with Morey St. Dénis, as well as what could be described as the Stradivarius of grand crus, Musigny.