Pinot Noir is a capricious and mysterious mistress, with fastidious growing requirements. It fares best in the cool climate of its native Burgundy, and is at its most articulate in the great villages of the Côte d’Or. The Côte de Beaune is about vibrancy and red cherry fruit flavours. In the north, as one heads up through the Côte de Nuits through villages like Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin, the wines have denser wild fruit characters, building in concentration and structure. The southerly vineyards of Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise produce beautifully accessible wines. Honourable mention must also go to Burgundy’s other red grape: the crunchy, juicy Gamay of Beaujolais.