Vintage Report & Recommendations

RHONE 2008 - THE TERROIR VINTAGE

We have always loved the wines from the Rhône. In November 2006, we decided to embrace them even further by becoming a leading dealer in the region and by holding an En Primeur tasting. This inaugural tasting was to feature the majority of our growers and to highlight the most recent vintage as well as a number of older vintages. This was not only to show these wines in their delicious youth but also how they age and evolve.We have not looked back. Our Rhône tasting has now become one of our biggest events and continues growing. It is a place where drinkers can discover everything the Rhône has to offer.

One of the things that we appreciate the most is how wonderfully varied its wines are. From a valley that is over 180 km long with 20 different appellations, over 20 different grape varieties and umpteen ‘terroirs’, the wine styles are endless. In the north, there is poised and aromatic Côte Rôtie, powerful, brooding Hermitage, friendly, appealing Crozes Hermitage to velvety, ample Cornas. In the south, there is zesty Gigondas, plump, spicy Vacqueyras and robust Châteauneuf du Pape.With all these styles, there literally is something for everyone. Even for white wine drinkers, choice comes in the form of perfumed Condrieu, noble Hermitage, fleshy yet mineral St. Péray or voluptuous Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc.

It is never easy following in the footsteps of a heralded vintage such as 2007. In the eyes of the critics, the elegance and fruit forwardness of the 2008s may fall into the shadows of the muscle and mass of the 2007s. But what people often forget is that wines of 2007’s calibre (most notably from the southern Rhône) will take years to come around. Even when they do, they will still be big wines that will demand a bit of pomp and circumstance to be consumed. Classic vintages like 2008 remind us that refinement, balance and gentleness can go a long way, particularly in terms of food pairing. Is a 100-point Parker wine with 15.5% alcohol really the right thing to drink with a simple, yet delicious roast chicken?

THE VINTAGE

Many growers have characterised 2008 as the ‘Terroir Vintage’ - that is, a vintage where the vineyards’ unique soils, climates and aspects were capable of expressing themselves fully, producing wines that typify the variety and appellation.

As vintages go, it was a challenging one and because of this the soul of each vineyard was able to surface and express itself best. The spring was cool and rainy which caused irregular flowering and eventually lead to some uneven ripening. The summer was often overcast and mildew tried to spread thorough the valley which could only be curbed by watchful eyes, pre-empted treatments and high selectivity.

A deluge hit the northern Rhône in the beginning of September with Tain l’Hermitage receiving 300 ml of rain in 3 days. Other areas in the north received less, though it cannot be stressed enough that vines grown on steeper slopes and those on limestone or stony soils were less touched than those on the rolling valley floor or more clay-dominant soils. The south avoided the downpour.

Luckily, the harvest was still several weeks away and the rain could be balanced out within the vine through natural drainage, the sun, wind and dry weather. Starting the second week of September, the valley was dry and sunny. The cooler season prevented rot from forming and led to a late harvest with many growers picking into October. This enabled the grapes to concentrate following the previous wetter months. By the time the harvest commenced, the berries were generally small with a good juice-to-skin ratio. Selection was of the utmost importance. Most of our growers produced 30% less wine than an average year, but certain domaines such as Beaucastel and Bois de Boursan in Châteauneuf du Pape were down by a whopping 50%. It was undoubtedly a sacrifice, but this enabled their high quality to remain intact.

THE WINES

There are many things to like about the 2008s, and it is these qualities that make them truly stand apart in their own right from more powerful, structured wines. Over the past 15 years, the combination of global warming, longer hang time, lower yields and scrupulous winemaking has increased overall quality and concentration. So when a great vintage comes along with its high degree days and sunny, dry weather, this combination of savoir faire and mother nature can easily produce full-throttle, high alcohol wines. These bottles will demand years in the cellar before softening and unveiling themselves.

A vintage like 2008 is very different. Vignerons took account of 2008’s unique weather conditions,but they also took advantage of the same know how to produce wines of noteworthy balance and poise. The tannins are fine and soft, the fruit is sweet and occasionally opulent, the alcohol moderate and the acidity fresh and uplifting. They will not require a decade before they reach their sweet spot but will entice willing palates earlier on. Things do not have to be big to be beautiful, and this is exactly how we feel about the 2008s.

Many producers in the northern Rhône have compared their 2008s to 2004s but with less structure. They are fresh and fruity with a plump core. Bernard Faurie, who made an impressive 2008,compared it to 1994 in terms of style and vintage conditions, yet he also said - with a twinkle in his eye – that 1994’s aged well, far better than people originally thought.

In the south too, there was a comparison with 2004. Eric Michel of Cros de la Mûre tasted the similarities, but for him 2008 is even more elegant and linear. Jean-Paul Versino of Bois de Boursan felt the comparison lies more with 1993 or 1997 in terms of its freshness and balance. Compared to the north, southern wines have slightly more concentration, but this is the land where fleshy Grenache has a significant role to play. Alcohols are more in check with levels hovering around 14%-14.5% (similar to 1998) instead of 2007’s 15%-15.5% - a refreshing change. Many winemakers noted that they are like the wines of yesteryear in terms of their equilibrium.

Many vignerons across the valley chose not to separate their top wines in order to produce the best straight cuvée. This had a significant part to play and the proof is in the pudding so to speak.

The stand out for the reds is Mas de Daumas Gassac. They have such an unusual micro-climate that 2008 is to them as 2005 was to Bordeaux. Everything fell into the right place to produce an incredible wine which is intensely concentrated and complex.

The whites are wonderfully fresh, mineral and pure. This is a perfect vintage for those who look for lighter styled wines. This includes all appellations whether they are Condrieu, Hermitage, St. Joseph, St. Péray or Châteauneuf du Pape.