Pol Roger released the 2004 vintage of their prestige Cuvée Winston Churchill for £600 per 6 IB. This is only the 15th cuvée of Sir Winston Churchill since its first vintage release with the stunning 1975.
The exact blend has always been a closely guarded secret, far more important is that it should possess the exact characteristics which Sir Winston Churchill sought in his Champagne from the great house of Pol Roger: “robustness, full bodied and a certain amount of maturity”. The delicious 2004 vintage released this morning possesses all those fantastic credentials and is absolutely worthy of bearing the name of the famous man himself. It is a very special cuvée, surprisingly forward and therefore delicious for current drinking and possibly slightly ahead of the previously released 2002. The 2004 is entering its peak of drinking now, but has an abundance of texture that will guarantee its ageing potential.
2004 was a very classical year and the superb weather conditions the first three weeks in September allowed the fruit to reach optimum maturity with an abundant crop of very ripe fruit. The slow cool fermentations practised at Pol Roger, with each individual village’s grapes and variety vinified separately allows the wine making team to make wines with amazing levels of both purity and complexity. Whilst the exact percentage is not known Pinot Noir dominates the blend to provide, the characteristic breadth, structure and robustness, with the careful use of chardonnay providing a touch of elegance, finesse and subtlety and all the fruit comes from solely Grand Cru vineyard sites all of which were all under vines in Churchill’s lifetime.
Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2004
Bright lemon yellow colour. On the nose there is an abundance of fresh brioche and subtle characteristics of toasted almonds. In the palate, there is an immediate impact of fullness and texture, with a delicious feel of fresh cream and tremendous purity. This wine, despite its obvious weight of fruit, has amazing balance and harmony, a beautifully refined and yet persistent mousse and the final sensation is one of flavour, fruit, brioche and jersey cream, whilst remaining totally fresh throughout the palate. Absolutely delicious a very special cuvée indeed. 94 points David Roberts MW